A fascinating and surprising peek into Saudi Arabia
Over time Saudi Arabia has felt like a place shrouded in mystery, appearing in films and storybooks. A faraway land, distant, exclusive, almost mythical with vast wealth and hidden traditions. But that image is rapidly changing, writes Jane Wilson.
I journeyed there to explore the country’s deep cultural roots and test a few long-held assumptions. First myth dispelled - yes, it is open to visitors, and yes, women are welcomed. Everywhere I went, the greeting was warm, accompanied by the customary egg-cup of local coffee and a plate of dates. The coffee is strong, an acquired taste. Saudi women tend to dress conservatively, usually in an abaya with a coordinating head covering, though these are not required for visitors except in mosques. Respectful attire is expected, meaning loose-fitting clothing that covers shoulders and knees. Shops display rows of abayas in classic black and increasingly in vivid colours, embroidered and tailored with western influences. I debated over a beautifully cut style that would have doubled as a dramatic evening coat.
Riyadh is the capital, a blend of traditional culture and modern skyscrapers such as the Kingdom Centre Tower with a sky-bridge viewing deck. The city’s historic centrepiece, the Masmak Fortress, rises like an oversized sandcastle. This mud-brick landmark has witnessed key chapters of Saudi’s unification and today is a museum. Souk Al-Zal is the oldest marketplace in the city and a sensory overload of perfume stalls, rugs and aromatic oud wood on display. The city is modern, hip and dynamic with flashes of western life, flooded with art, flashy malls and restaurants. Getting around is easy thanks to the city’s metro system, which opened last year and offers female-only and accessible carriages. Taxis are plentiful and women now drive themselves. In fact, my plane into Saudi Arabia was flown by female pilots, a reminder that stereotypes deserve early retirement.
Riyadh’s cultural calendar is expanding, positioning itself as a global events hub, hosting everything from the Esports World Cup, the Red Sea International Film Festival to Riyadh Fashion Weekend. I attended the Women’s Tennis Association Finals, watching the winner depart with a jaw-dropping prize exceeding £11.3 million. I stayed at The Fairmont, a luxurious contemporary hotel, crowned with glowing domes. Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows, sleek design and thoughtful amenities. There’s a spa and indoor pool. But the breakfast buffet deserves its own fan club for its elegant mix of healthy dishes and lavish artisan offerings.
VIA Riyadh is an ornate, open-air shopping mall. Here I dined at Gymkhana, the Michelin-starred restaurant inspired by India’s historic club culture. Across the city, dining options stretch from carpets-on-the-floor traditional to polished fine dining. Aseeb restaurant, rooted in Najdi cuisine, serves dishes such as lamb grilled on palm leaves and hashi, or camel, paired with honey and tahini. Alcohol is prohibited throughout the country but the mocktails are imaginative and plentiful. Fresh juices shine, especially the lemon-mint combination. Ask them to skip the syrup if you prefer less sweetness.
Just fifteen minutes northwest of Riyadh lies Diriyah, the historic birthplace of the Saudi state and home to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of At-Turaif. By night a laser show traces its history across the ancient walls, while the nearby Bujairi Terrace district offers a curated cluster of contemporary restaurants. My dinner at the terrace’s first fine-dining venue was exceptionally good paired with views of the past and present.
From Riyadh I travelled to AlUla, a living open-air museum around ninety minutes by plane. The region sits along the ancient Incense Road and once offered refuge to traders, pilgrims and nomadic communities. At sunset, Elephant Rock is the place to be. With sunken seating, lanterns and families gathered over shared dishes from nearby stalls, it feels atmospheric and distinctive. No surprise that AlUla hosts an annual wellness festival each October.
The landscape deepens in drama driving through the desert toward the Ashar Valley and Our Habitas, a resort where sustainability shapes every detail. Eco-villas built from ethically sourced materials blend into the canyon walls, while vintage Airstream caravans provide a quirky alternative, complete with food trucks – cool! Nights here are devoted to stargazing. With minimal light pollution, the sky feels infinitely close. Wrapped in thick blankets, listening to a guide explain the constellations that once steered Bedouin travellers, I heard the silence of the desert. Other experiences include trekking, coffee workshops, art walks and a cinema under the stars. For something more authentic, Dar Tantora The House Hotel occupies restored mud-brick dwellings illuminated by candlelight and lanterns rather than electricity. And for something glamorous, the restaurant, Maraya Social, which sits atop the world’s largest mirrored building, serves Mediterranean and Arabian flavours paired with inventive seasonal mocktails, courtesy of London chef Jason Atherton.
Floating above AlUla in a hot-air balloon, suspended in stillness with the sun rising across a desert carpet, the monumental carved tombs of Hegra appeared below like miniature boxes. On the ground, guided tours of these grand tombs, 110 in total, are offered in vintage land rovers. Hegra is an ancient archaeological site and the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in Saudi Arabia. Open-top 4x4 tours explore the nature reserve, home to rewilding projects and the possibility of spotting Arabian leopards, sand gazelles, oryx and red-necked ostriches. In the nearby old town of AlUla, mud-brick houses line narrow alleyways creating a sense of history. Evenings shift to the modern quarter, where bars and restaurants spill onto paved streets beside the AlJadidah Arts District.
Saudi Arabia is no longer a distant rumour. Its image, like the dunes themselves, is shifting. This destination has stepped into the global spotlight unwrapping a rich deep-rooted culture, with a shiny coat of modern identity.
Travel facts
Jane was hosted by Saudi Tourism Board. She stayed at Habitas AlUla and Fairmont Riyadh. For more information on Saudi and to help plan your trip, head to VisitSaudi.com